Christie’s Wood and Glass typically uses a solid oak threshold manufactured in our own shop to ensure proper height and fit. The threshold is complimented by an adjustable door shoe on the bottom of the door. With this combination, you are not walking on a component that is adjustable. In the event that this weather seal needs adjusting, it is performed on the shoe rather than the threshold.
Ideally, the threshold should be higher than the interior finished flooring by 1/2″ to 3/4″. This is high enough for the door to clear the flooring when it is opened, but low enough not to be a stumbling block to those who pass through the door. We build thresholds from 3/4″ to 1 3/4″ high.
Thresholds often take quite a bit of abuse. Dragging a file cabinet over it or rolling a refrigerator over it can cause dings or scratches. The beauty of the wood threshold is that it can be refinished in minutes. If cared for, it will last for decades.
Our thresholds are built flush with the jamb legs on both the interior and exterior. We suggest that the prehung unit be installed over a sill nosing or flashing to divert water to the exterior over the foundation.
We are happy to build custom thresholds, as the builder may specify, to accommodate unusual circumstances or older homes. We do not stock metal thresholds, but we can special order them for you if you wish. Additional charges will apply.
When building a prehung unit, we need to know both the unit height and the threshold height. This combination will yield the actual door height. It is helpful if we know the level at which the threshold will rest. This added bit of information might raise a red flag and give us an opportunity to optimize the unit.
Example #1: The existing threshold rests on the subfloor. The interior finished flooring is 3/4″ oak. The homeowner wants to use a throw rug at the door.
Solution #1: We want the top surface of the threshold to be 3/4″ above the oak flooring to accommodate the throw rug. Add this to the oak flooring itself and we see that we will need a 1 1/2″ high threshold that will rest at the level of the subfloor. The rough opening height is dictated to be the distance from the subfloor to the header beam.
Example #2: This new home has a poured, stained concrete floor to the foundation’s edge. Effectively, there is no subfloor. The threshold will rest at the level of the finished floor. A throw rug may or may not be used.
Solution #2: The threshold will be 3/4″ high and rest at the level of the finished floor. The rough opening height is dictated to be the distance from the finished floor to the header beam.
Example #3: In this 150-year-old home, the flooring has been remodeled several times. While the original threshold rested on the subfloor, the original 3/4″ pine flooring was covered over with 1/2″ oak flooring. Recently, it was carpeted with 1/2″ pad and 1″ pile carpet. The homeowner wants to use a mat over the carpet at the entryway.
Solution #3: The total height from the subfloor to the top of the flooring is 3/4″ + 1/2″ + 1/2″ + 1″ = 2 3/4″. Add the mat for 3/4″ above the flooring and we see that we will need a 3 1/2″-high threshold. Since we only make the threshold height a maximum of 1 3/4″, the finish carpenter will need to install a shim to effectively boost up the height of the subfloor. (3 1/2″ – 1 3/4″ = 1 3/4″). The carpenter should install a 1 3/4″-high shim . The rough opening is then dictated to be the distance from the top of the shim to the header beam. The carpenter should cover the shim with an apron, sill nosing, or flashing before installing the prehung unit.
