Screen Maintenance
The screen unit used in the Breeze and Light Breeze is the “Stowaway”, manufactured by Stoett Industries. Each screen has a hydraulic slow-close device which allows the screen to retract gently into its housing. We have replaced the magnetic catch with an adjustable tension catch that holds the screen firmly in place while in use.
The Screen Unit
Aside from the fabric being torn, not much can go wrong with this screen design. If, for any reason, the screen unit would require a repair or replacement, it can be removed from the door by simply removing the eight attachment screws (two in each track and four in the screen housing.) The hinged panel can then be closed and the Breeze can remain in Entry Door Mode until the screen unit is replaced. The screen unit can then be taken to any Stoett dealer for repair or to purchase a replacement unit in its precise size. Alternatively, if you do not have a local Stoett dealer, simply give us a call. We can ship the replacement unit to you directly.
The Fabric
Unfortunately, the fabric is difficult and time-consuming to replace within the screen unit and it is not covered by a manufacturer’s warranty. If it is torn, we suggest a simple replacement of the screen unit, which can be purchased through us or a local Stoett dealer.
If the screen edges simply become dislodged from the track as a result of someone pushing on the fabric or a dog bouncing against the fabric, simply retract the screen back into its housing, then re-extend the screen. This action should get the fabric re-aligned on housing roller. You may have to retract and extend the screen more than once.
The Track
It is possible for the track to get dirty, causing the pull bar to get stuck during operation. So the track should be kept clean for smooth operation. The track bead can also be lubricated if necessary.
To clean the track, spray a gentle cleanser like “Fantastik” onto a soft cloth and wipe the track bead. Do not spray the cleanser directly onto the door or screen unit. The same is true for lubrication. Place a small amount of graphite lubricant or spray lubricant like WD40 onto a soft cloth and wipe the track bead. Do not spray lubricant directly onto the door or screen unit.
In the event that the Screen Housing needs to be replaced, keep the track, since it is already drilled and fitted. The track legs will re-fit into the new housing.
The Valance
The Valance is not only used to capture the hinged panel. It is also used to compress the weather strip on the hinged panel for a snug fit. The Valance has two casement fasteners, one at either end. These parts (also referred to as Casement Latches) can become worn or damaged over time, just like the brakes on your car. Keeping them lubricated and operating them properly will extend their life expectancy.
Proper Operation of the Valance:
Press firmly on the Valance adjacent to the latch to relieve pressure on the latch itself. Turn the latch handle; do not pull. Repeat with the other latch. ALWAYS keep pressure against the hinged panel to keep it from falling. Lower the panel gently until it engages the tension catch near the bottom of the door. Lower the screen until it engages its tension catch. Then lower the Valance and re-engage the latches so the Valance is secure while the door itself is opened or closed.
Reverse the procedure for returning to Entry Door Mode. Turn the Casement Latches vertical. Raise the Valance. Retract the screen. Raise the hinged panel while maintaining its support. Lower the Valance to capture the top of the hinged panel. Press firmly on the Valance adjacent to the Casement Latch to relieve pressure caused by the weather strip. Turn the Casement latch perpendicular to close. Repeat at the other end.
The latch and its strike can be lubricated for smoother operation and prolonged life. We recommend using paraffin wax (such as ski or surfboard wax) on the strike where it comes in contact with the latch.
Just like tires or brakes on your vehicle, it is foreseeable that these parts will wear and eventually need to be replaced. While you can order these latches from us, they are also available online. Be sure to order the same finish as the latches you are replacing. The specific replacement latch for your search is: Deltana CF066 Casement Fastener.
Door Maintenance
The wood door itself generally requires no maintenance beyond dusting or cleaning. Dust or smog can accumulate in corners, grooves, and pockets. It’s wise to use a soft brush or damp cloth to remove this. Follow with a dry towel or cloth to remove excess water.
A non-abrasive cleanser (like Fantastik) can be sprayed on to remove hand prints and greasy patches as they develop. Buff out the area with a soft, dry cloth after cleaning.
That being said, wood is a material that can expand or contract based on heat or humidity changes. We only use kiln-dried wood for our doors. Our working climate generally has moderate temperatures and low humidity. If left unfinished, it is possible for door components to expand or contract when introduced to a new environment. This is why most door warranties (including ours) require a finish application as soon as possible. While the finish application will not prevent moisture exchange entirely, it will retard that exchange to a level that is seasonably managed, expanding in the humid season and contracting in the dry season. If the finish is maintained, this movement is generally very small. Different wood species will have various degrees of expansion/contraction.
The wood may need to acclimate to its new home, so there may be some movement in the first year or when seasons change. While this movement is happening all the time, you may only notice it when it causes a problem.
- A panel may check because it cannot contract freely.
- The door might stick because the stiles have swollen to the point where the door rubs against the jamb.
- The top of the door might stick because the frame has changed shape.
- The shoe may rub excessively on the threshold if the door sags.
All of these “problems” are symptoms of wood movement. Treating the symptom may be the only course of action.
If your home is in a humid environment (near a river, lake, ocean, etc.), the wood may expand consistently until it reaches equilibrium with the environment. Then it should settle down to minor, seasonal movement.
A properly-fitted door should not rub against the jamb. The gap around the periphery of the door is designed to be 3/32″ to 1/8″. There are a variety of reasons why a door may lose its fit to the jamb. It is suggested that you consult with us or an efficient installer regarding the course of action to re-fit the door to the jamb. This should not go unchecked. If the swelling is not addressed, the sticking door can cause extensive damage to the hardware or the woodwork itself.
Hardware
The hinges and latches should be kept clean and lubricated to function properly. If the hardware functions smoothly, its lifespan is significantly increased.
While latches must necessarily rub against the strike during operation, deadbolts should not. They should extend into and retract from the strike without friction. If the door is installed properly, latches and deadbolts should be centered vertically in their strikes and there should be no friction regarding operation of the deadbolt.
Wood movement or settling over time can cause the hardware to become misaligned. Knowing what caused the issue will determine the course of action for the repair. Again, do not let the misalignment go unchecked. You may be able to get in by lifting on the handle today, but tomorrow the latch will break, you’ll be locked out, and the repair will be costly.
Hinge pins are greased at the factory and should last for several years. They can be re-lubricated by removing the pin and applying a thin coat of bearing grease. After re-installing the pin, remove any excess grease.
Latches may need to be removed for lubrication. Graphite powder, teflon grease, or a small amount of WD40 on moving parts should keep things moving smoothly. Be sure to wipe away any excess lubricant.
The visible portions of your decorative hardware should never be cleaned with abrasive or caustic cleaners. While different companies use various procedures to achieve their colors, not all are durable. Trapper Peak Forge recommends Johnson’s Paste Wax for cleaning and protecting its finishes. Others recommend mild soap and water and drying with a soft cotton cloth.
Finish Application
Your finish application will not last forever! It’s longevity is determined by the type of finish and its exposure to sunlight and moisture. We can only address the finishes that were applied here. We cannot advise you on finishes that were applied by others.
Polyurethane varnishes break down when exposed to ultraviolet light (sunlight.) The more light, the faster the finish breaks down. If the entryway faces south with no roof overhang, the entryway may need to be refinished every year. We suggest this be done in the Fall for best protection through the winter months. If the entryway faces north with a good roof overhang, then several years may pass before the entryway needs refinishing.
When your entryway is new, it has a satin luster to it. The “plastic coating” is apparent. The breakdown of this coating occurs gradually over time, so slowly that it is not noticeable on a daily or even monthly basis. It is wise to stop and examine the finish on your door from time to time so that you don’t accidentally wait too long and turn the simple refinishing process into a major restoration project.
The lower, exterior surface of the entryway (the bottom rail) will always deteriorate at a faster rate than the upper areas. This is because it gets more direct and reflected UV radiation than the upper portions. So always check your finish application low on the exterior side of the door, not at eye height! The interior side of your entryway may never require refinishing if it does not receive direct sunlight.
The first symptom of varnish breakdown is that the luster of the varnish appears dull. As the breakdown continues, the stained wood may appear as though it has no overcoat at all. This is the “point of no return.” The entryway must be refinished at this point to avoid more lengthy processes. Do not put it off. The sun will not stop shining just because you don’t have time to refinish your door this weekend!
In addition to visually checking you door from time to time, you can simply wipe your bare hand over the surface of the door. Examine your hand for a fine, white powder. This is the varnish after the long-chain polyurethane molecules are broken. While it is wise to dust off your door occasionally, and even use mild cleansers to remove smudges, make sure you wipe off any chemicals that may react with the varnish. Do not use thinners, acetone, or other harsh chemicals as they may destroy the varnish finish.
When you have established that it is time to refinish, lightly sand the varnish to etch the existing varnish and re-establish a smooth surface, free of dust and other contaminants. Follow the instructions on the can for application of the new varnish. Prop the door open until the varnish dries. If additional coats are necessary, repeat the process of sanding and varnishing.
If you have allowed the deterioration to progress beyond the “point of no return”, there may be some loss of color from the original staining. Since the door has no overcoat, water vapor molecules can enter the wood causing expansion which may affect joints. If the humidity is dry, wood shrinkage can occur, also affecting joinery. If a given component cannot shrink, it may develop cracks (called “checks”). These checks may close up again as the wood returns to a more humid environment, but they do not go away permanently, and may continue to get worse over time.
This becomes a restoration project rather than simply refinishing. You must make a choice. Do you want to re-establish the door’s original appearance? Or are you willing to accept an aged patina on the entryway? If the aged look is acceptable, use wood putty to fill any checks, sand it, re-stain the affected areas, and re-varnish the entire project using the techniques described above. There will likely be some color and texture variances between the new and old surfaces. Stain will not penetrate through the existing varnish.
If you choose to restore the new appearance, the entire door must be scraped and sanded down to raw wood. Then, checks can be filled, stain re-applied, and varnish re-applied in a similar manner to that described when the door was new.
If you feel that this labor of love is beyond your capacity, go with your gut feeling. Most paint contractors can perform these tasks. There is more labor with the removal of the old finish, so the cost will likely be more than the cost of the original finish.
